Planning
| Time |
Event |
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16:00 - 19:00
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Welcome - Reception of participants at the 4th IRCRA Congress - ENSA Reception Hall |
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| Time |
Event |
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08:00 - 09:30
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Welcome - Reception of participants at the 4th IRCRA Congress - ENSA Reception Hall |
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09:30 - 10:30
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Official opening (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Marie-Noëlle FLEURY, Sport Deputy Mayor of Chamonix (France) - Nick DRAPER, IRCRA President (New Zealand) |
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10:30 - 11:30
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From free climbing emergence to the Olympic games recognition (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Marco SCOLARIS, IFSC President (Italia) |
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11:30 - 13:30
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Lunch (Restaurant ENSA) |
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13:30 - 14:30
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Keynotes: Fight gravity - Biomechanics of rock climbing (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Franck QUAINE (France) |
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14:30 - 16:30
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Biomechanics&Engineering (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Franck QUAINE (France) |
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16:30 - 17:00
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Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) |
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17:00 - 18:00
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All (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) - Poster Session |
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18:00 - 19:00
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Keynote 02: Stances: is improving possible? Anchoring equalization of a stance in mountaineering and climbing activities (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Vittorio BEDOGNI (Italia) |
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| Time |
Event |
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08:30 - 09:00
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Keynote: Growth plate injuries prevention regarding young climber competitors (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Kathleen BOJOLY (France) |
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09:00 - 09:30
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Keynote: Climber’s finger injuries (Amphithéatre ENSA) - François MOUTET (France) |
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09:30 - 11:30
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Medicine (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Gareth JONES (UK) |
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11:30 - 13:30
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Lunch (Restaurant ENSA) |
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13:30 - 15:30
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Medicine (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Gareth JONES (UK) |
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15:30 - 16:00
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Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) |
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16:00 - 17:00
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Keynote: Hemodynamic responses to rock climbing (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Simon FRYER (UK) |
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17:00 - 19:00
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Physiology (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Vanessa ESPAÑA-ROMERO (Spain) |
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19:00 - 20:00
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High level climber testimony - About a different life (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Nina CAPREZ (Switzerland) |
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| Time |
Event |
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08:00 - 09:00
|
Reception and registration of participants at the sociology day - ENSA Reception Hall |
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09:00 - 09:30
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Keynote: The three dimension of climbing sportization (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Olivier AUBEL (Switzerland) |
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09:30 - 10:00
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Keynote: The issue of climbing Olympic Inclusion (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Marc LE MENESTREL (Spain) |
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10:00 - 10:30
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The introduction of Sport Climbing at Tokyo 2020’s Olympic Games: analysis of the controversy in France (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Augustin ROGEAUX (France) |
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10:30 - 11:00
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Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) |
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|
11:00 - 12:30
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History, Sociology & Law (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Round table - Olympisation: issues, questions and concerns |
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12:30 - 14:00
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Lunch (Restaurant ENSA) |
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14:00 - 14:20
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Climbing: a variety of sport practices and alcohol consumptions (Amphithéatre ENSA) - François FELIU (France) |
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14:20 - 14:40
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An Examination of Climbers’ Information-Seeking Behaviors for Injury Care and Prevention (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Tallie CASUCCI (USA) |
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14:40 - 15:00
|
Climbing as a worksite intervention: An strategy for climbing walls acceptance in business in México (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Aline GONZÁLEZ-MORENO (Mexico) |
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15:00 - 15:30
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Keynote: Climbing tourism experience (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Jillian RICKLY (UK) |
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15:30 - 15:50
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Collecting the Local History of Climbing in Utah: Looking back, moving forward (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Tallie CASUCCI (USA) |
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15:50 - 16:20
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Economic impact of climbing in the United States: lessons on data and the outdoor revolution (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Olivier AUBEL (Switzerland) |
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16:30 - 17:00
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Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) |
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17:00 - 18:30
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Round table (Amphithéatre ENSA) - The Legal, Economic and Spatial Stakes of Climbing as a Tourism-Market |
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| Time |
Event |
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08:30 - 20:30
|
Rest Day - Free day freed for hiking arround the Mont Blanc and to attend the IFSC Speed and Lead World Cups |
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| Time |
Event |
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08:30 - 09:30
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Keynote 09: Beyond mental skills training: creating psychologically robust climberathletes (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Rebecca WILLIAMS (UK) |
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09:30 - 11:30
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Psychology (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Xavier SANCHEZ (Sweden) |
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11:30 - 13:30
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Lunch (Restaurant ENSA) |
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|
13:30 - 15:30
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All (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) - Poster session |
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15:30 - 16:00
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Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) |
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|
16:00 - 17:00
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Pedagogy & Didactics (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) - Poster session |
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16:00 - 17:00
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Perceptual motor skills in climbing: expertise and learning (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Ludovic SEIFERT (France) |
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17:00 - 19:00
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Motor Control & Pedagogy (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Ludovic SEIFERT (France) |
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20:00 - 23:00
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IFSC lead Word Cup - Women and Men finals followed by fireworks |
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| Time |
Event |
|
|
08:00 - 09:00
|
Reception of participants for the training day - ENSA Reception Hall |
|
|
09:00 - 09:15
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Presentation of the day (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Olivier BROUSSOULOUX (France) |
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09:15 - 09:25
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Welcome (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Pierre YOU (President of the FFME, France) |
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09:25 - 10:00
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Training in sport climbing : past, present and the Olympic constraints (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Pierre-Henry PAILLASSON (FFME - France) |
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09:30 - 10:30
|
Keynote: Training for international speed climbing events (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Sylvain CHAPELLE (France) |
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11:00 - 12:00
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Keynote: Enhancing workspace and use of momentum in climbing (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Udo NEUMANN (Germany) |
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12:00 - 13:30
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Lunch (Restaurant ENSA) |
|
|
13:30 - 15:10
|
Training (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Olivier BROUSSOULOUX (France) |
|
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15:10 - 15:45
|
Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) |
|
|
16:00 - 17:00
|
Keynote: Competition climbing – developing future champions (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Urs STÖCKER (Switzerland) |
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16:45 - 17:45
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Keynote: Training for international combined events (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Yasui HIROSHI (Japan) |
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17:45 - 18:45
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General discussion (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Round Table |
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18:45 - 19:15
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Qualitative analysis of two of 2017’s greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirement (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Eric HÖRST (USA) |
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19:15 - 19:45
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Climbing circumstances in Japan and upcoming Congress in 2020 (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Shinji MIZUMARA (Japan) |
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20:30 - 23:55
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Closing Gala (Brasserie de l'M) |
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