Program, organization, registration and submission to the IRCRA 2018 congress
8-14 Jul 2018 Chamonix (France)

Planning

Sunday, July 8, 2018

Time Event  
16:00 - 19:00 Welcome - Reception of participants at the 4th IRCRA Congress - ENSA Reception Hall  

Monday, July 9, 2018

Time Event  
08:00 - 09:30 Welcome - Reception of participants at the 4th IRCRA Congress - ENSA Reception Hall  
09:30 - 10:30 Official opening (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Marie-Noëlle FLEURY, Sport Deputy Mayor of Chamonix (France) - Nick DRAPER, IRCRA President (New Zealand)  
10:30 - 11:30 From free climbing emergence to the Olympic games recognition (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Marco SCOLARIS, IFSC President (Italia)  
11:30 - 13:30 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)  
13:30 - 14:30 Keynotes: Fight gravity - Biomechanics of rock climbing (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Franck QUAINE (France)  
14:30 - 16:30 Biomechanics&Engineering (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Franck QUAINE (France)  
16:30 - 17:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)  
17:00 - 18:00 All (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) - Poster Session  
18:00 - 19:00 Keynote 02: Stances: is improving possible? Anchoring equalization of a stance in mountaineering and climbing activities (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Vittorio BEDOGNI (Italia)  

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Time Event  
08:30 - 09:00 Keynote: Growth plate injuries prevention regarding young climber competitors (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Kathleen BOJOLY (France)  
09:00 - 09:30 Keynote: Climber’s finger injuries (Amphithéatre ENSA) - François MOUTET (France)  
09:30 - 11:30 Medicine (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Gareth JONES (UK)  
11:30 - 13:30 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)  
13:30 - 15:30 Medicine (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Gareth JONES (UK)  
15:30 - 16:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)  
16:00 - 17:00 Keynote: Hemodynamic responses to rock climbing (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Simon FRYER (UK)  
17:00 - 19:00 Physiology (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Vanessa ESPAÑA-ROMERO (Spain)  
19:00 - 20:00 High level climber testimony - About a different life (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Nina CAPREZ (Switzerland)  

Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Time Event  
08:00 - 09:00 Reception and registration of participants at the sociology day - ENSA Reception Hall  
09:00 - 09:30 Keynote: The three dimension of climbing sportization (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Olivier AUBEL (Switzerland)  
09:30 - 10:00 Keynote: The issue of climbing Olympic Inclusion (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Marc LE MENESTREL (Spain)  
10:00 - 10:30 The introduction of Sport Climbing at Tokyo 2020’s Olympic Games: analysis of the controversy in France (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Augustin ROGEAUX (France)  
10:30 - 11:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)  
11:00 - 12:30 History, Sociology & Law (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Round table - Olympisation: issues, questions and concerns  
12:30 - 14:00 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)  
14:00 - 14:20 Climbing: a variety of sport practices and alcohol consumptions (Amphithéatre ENSA) - François FELIU (France)  
14:20 - 14:40 An Examination of Climbers’ Information-Seeking Behaviors for Injury Care and Prevention (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Tallie CASUCCI (USA)  
14:40 - 15:00 Climbing as a worksite intervention: An strategy for climbing walls acceptance in business in México (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Aline GONZÁLEZ-MORENO (Mexico)  
15:00 - 15:30 Keynote: Climbing tourism experience (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Jillian RICKLY (UK)  
15:30 - 15:50 Collecting the Local History of Climbing in Utah: Looking back, moving forward (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Tallie CASUCCI (USA)  
15:50 - 16:20 Economic impact of climbing in the United States: lessons on data and the outdoor revolution (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Olivier AUBEL (Switzerland)  
16:30 - 17:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)  
17:00 - 18:30 Round table (Amphithéatre ENSA) - The Legal, Economic and Spatial Stakes of Climbing as a Tourism-Market  

Thursday, July 12, 2018

Time Event  
08:30 - 20:30 Rest Day - Free day freed for hiking arround the Mont Blanc and to attend the IFSC Speed and Lead World Cups  

Friday, July 13, 2018

Time Event  
08:30 - 09:30 Keynote 09: Beyond mental skills training: creating psychologically robust climberathletes (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Rebecca WILLIAMS (UK)  
09:30 - 11:30 Psychology (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Xavier SANCHEZ (Sweden)  
11:30 - 13:30 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)  
13:30 - 15:30 All (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) - Poster session  
15:30 - 16:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)  
16:00 - 17:00 Pedagogy & Didactics (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) - Poster session  
16:00 - 17:00 Perceptual motor skills in climbing: expertise and learning (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Ludovic SEIFERT (France)  
17:00 - 19:00 Motor Control & Pedagogy (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Ludovic SEIFERT (France)  
20:00 - 23:00 IFSC lead Word Cup - Women and Men finals followed by fireworks  

Saturday, July 14, 2018

Time Event  
08:00 - 09:00 Reception of participants for the training day - ENSA Reception Hall  
09:00 - 09:15 Presentation of the day (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Olivier BROUSSOULOUX (France)  
09:15 - 09:25 Welcome (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Pierre YOU (President of the FFME, France)  
09:25 - 10:00 Training in sport climbing : past, present and the Olympic constraints (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Pierre-Henry PAILLASSON (FFME - France)  
09:30 - 10:30 Keynote: Training for international speed climbing events (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Sylvain CHAPELLE (France)  
11:00 - 12:00 Keynote: Enhancing workspace and use of momentum in climbing (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Udo NEUMANN (Germany)  
12:00 - 13:30 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)  
13:30 - 15:10 Training (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Olivier BROUSSOULOUX (France)  
15:10 - 15:45 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)  
16:00 - 17:00 Keynote: Competition climbing – developing future champions (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Urs STÖCKER (Switzerland)  
16:45 - 17:45 Keynote: Training for international combined events (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Yasui HIROSHI (Japan)  
17:45 - 18:45 General discussion (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Round Table  
18:45 - 19:15 Qualitative analysis of two of 2017’s greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirement (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Eric HÖRST (USA)  
19:15 - 19:45 Climbing circumstances in Japan and upcoming Congress in 2020 (Amphithéatre ENSA) - Shinji MIZUMARA (Japan)  
20:30 - 23:55 Closing Gala (Brasserie de l'M)  
  
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