Planning

Week Sun. 08 Mon. 09 Tue. 10 Wed. 11 Thu. 12 Fri. 13 Sat. 14 List

	Sun. 08	Mon. 09	Tue. 10	Wed. 11	Thu. 12	Fri. 13	Sat. 14
08:00 09:00 10:00 11:00 12:00 13:00 14:00 15:00 16:00 17:00 18:00 19:00 20:00 21:00 22:00 23:00	Welcome 16:00 - 19:00 (3h) Welcome Reception of participants at the 4th IRCRA Congress - ENSA Reception Hall	Welcome 8:00 - 9:30 (1h30) Welcome Reception of participants at the 4th IRCRA Congress - ENSA Reception Hall Official opening 9:30 - 10:30 (1h) Official opening Amphithéatre ENSA Marie-Noëlle FLEURY, Sport Deputy Mayor of Chamonix (France) - Nick DRAPER, IRCRA President (New Zealand) From free climbing emergence to the Olympic games recognition 10:30 - 11:30 (1h) From free climbing emergence to the Olympic games recognition Amphithéatre ENSA Marco SCOLARIS, IFSC President (Italia) Lunch 11:30 - 13:30 (2h) Lunch Restaurant ENSA Keynotes: Fight gravity - Biomechanics of rock climbing 13:30 - 14:30 (1h) Keynotes: Fight gravity - Biomechanics of rock climbing Amphithéatre ENSA Franck QUAINE (France) Biomechanics&Engineering 14:30 - 16:30 (2h) Biomechanics&Engineering Amphithéatre ENSA Franck QUAINE (France) Coffee break 16:30 - 17:00 (30min) Coffee break Salle des Maquettes ENSA All 17:00 - 18:00 (1h) All Salle des Maquettes ENSA Poster Session Keynote 02: Stances: is improving possible? Anchoring equalization of a stance in mountaineering and climbing activities 18:00 - 19:00 (1h) Keynote 02: Stances: is improving possible? Anchoring equalization of a stance in mountaineering and climbing activities Amphithéatre ENSA Vittorio BEDOGNI (Italia)	Keynote: Growth plate injuries prevention regarding young climber competitors 8:30 - 9:00 (30min) Keynote: Growth plate injuries prevention regarding young climber competitors Amphithéatre ENSA Kathleen BOJOLY (France) Keynote: Climber’s finger injuries 9:00 - 9:30 (30min) Keynote: Climber’s finger injuries Amphithéatre ENSA François MOUTET (France) Medicine 9:30 - 11:30 (2h) Medicine Amphithéatre ENSA Gareth JONES (UK) Lunch 11:30 - 13:30 (2h) Lunch Restaurant ENSA Medicine 13:30 - 15:30 (2h) Medicine Amphithéatre ENSA Gareth JONES (UK) Coffee break 15:30 - 16:00 (30min) Coffee break Salle des Maquettes ENSA Keynote: Hemodynamic responses to rock climbing 16:00 - 17:00 (1h) Keynote: Hemodynamic responses to rock climbing Amphithéatre ENSA Simon FRYER (UK) Physiology 17:00 - 19:00 (2h) Physiology Amphithéatre ENSA Vanessa ESPAÑA-ROMERO (Spain) High level climber testimony - About a different life 19:00 - 20:00 (1h) High level climber testimony - About a different life Amphithéatre ENSA Nina CAPREZ (Switzerland)	Reception and registration of participants at the sociology day 8:00 - 9:00 (1h) Reception and registration of participants at the sociology day ENSA Reception Hall Keynote: The three dimension of climbing sportization 9:00 - 9:30 (30min) Keynote: The three dimension of climbing sportization Amphithéatre ENSA Olivier AUBEL (Switzerland) Keynote: The issue of climbing Olympic Inclusion 9:30 - 10:00 (30min) Keynote: The issue of climbing Olympic Inclusion Amphithéatre ENSA Marc LE MENESTREL (Spain) The introduction of Sport Climbing at Tokyo 2020’s Olympic Games: analysis of the controversy in France 10:00 - 10:30 (30min) The introduction of Sport Climbing at Tokyo 2020’s Olympic Games: analysis of the controversy in France Amphithéatre ENSA Augustin ROGEAUX (France) Coffee break 10:30 - 11:00 (30min) Coffee break Salle des Maquettes ENSA History, Sociology & Law 11:00 - 12:30 (1h30) History, Sociology & Law Amphithéatre ENSA Round table - Olympisation: issues, questions and concerns Lunch 12:30 - 14:00 (1h30) Lunch Restaurant ENSA Climbing: a variety of sport practices and alcohol consumptions 14:00 - 14:20 (20min) Climbing: a variety of sport practices and alcohol consumptions Amphithéatre ENSA François FELIU (France) An Examination of Climbers’ Information-Seeking Behaviors for Injury Care and Prevention 14:20 - 14:40 (20min) An Examination of Climbers’ Information-Seeking Behaviors for Injury Care and Prevention Amphithéatre ENSA Tallie CASUCCI (USA) Climbing as a worksite intervention: An strategy for climbing walls acceptance in business in México 14:40 - 15:00 (20min) Climbing as a worksite intervention: An strategy for climbing walls acceptance in business in México Amphithéatre ENSA Aline GONZÁLEZ-MORENO (Mexico) Keynote: Climbing tourism experience 15:00 - 15:30 (30min) Keynote: Climbing tourism experience Amphithéatre ENSA Jillian RICKLY (UK) Collecting the Local History of Climbing in Utah: Looking back, moving forward 15:30 - 15:50 (20min) Collecting the Local History of Climbing in Utah: Looking back, moving forward Amphithéatre ENSA Tallie CASUCCI (USA) Economic impact of climbing in the United States: lessons on data and the outdoor revolution 15:50 - 16:20 (30min) Economic impact of climbing in the United States: lessons on data and the outdoor revolution Amphithéatre ENSA Olivier AUBEL (Switzerland) Coffee break 16:30 - 17:00 (30min) Coffee break Salle des Maquettes ENSA Round table 17:00 - 18:30 (1h30) Round table Amphithéatre ENSA The Legal, Economic and Spatial Stakes of Climbing as a Tourism-Market	Rest Day 8:30 - 20:30 (12h) Rest Day	Keynote 09: Beyond mental skills training: creating psychologically robust climberathletes 8:30 - 9:30 (1h) Keynote 09: Beyond mental skills training: creating psychologically robust climberathletes Amphithéatre ENSA Rebecca WILLIAMS (UK) Psychology 9:30 - 11:30 (2h) Psychology Amphithéatre ENSA Xavier SANCHEZ (Sweden) Lunch 11:30 - 13:30 (2h) Lunch Restaurant ENSA All 13:30 - 15:30 (2h) All Salle des Maquettes ENSA Poster session Coffee break 15:30 - 16:00 (30min) Coffee break Salle des Maquettes ENSA Pedagogy & Didactics Perceptual motor skills in climbing: expertise and learning 16:00 - 17:00 (1h) Pedagogy & Didactics Salle des Maquettes ENSA Poster session 16:00 - 17:00 (1h) Perceptual motor skills in climbing: expertise and learning Amphithéatre ENSA Ludovic SEIFERT (France) Motor Control & Pedagogy 17:00 - 19:00 (2h) Motor Control & Pedagogy Amphithéatre ENSA Ludovic SEIFERT (France) IFSC lead Word Cup 20:00 - 23:00 (3h) IFSC lead Word Cup	Reception of participants for the training day 8:00 - 9:00 (1h) Reception of participants for the training day ENSA Reception Hall Presentation of the day 9:00 - 9:15 (15min) Presentation of the day Amphithéatre ENSA Olivier BROUSSOULOUX (France) Welcome 9:15 - 9:25 (10min) Welcome Amphithéatre ENSA Pierre YOU (President of the FFME, France) Training in sport climbing : past, present and the Olympic constraints Keynote: Training for international speed climbing events 9:25 - 10:00 (35min) Training in sport climbing : past, present and the Olympic constraints Amphithéatre ENSA Pierre-Henry PAILLASSON (FFME - France) 9:30 - 10:30 (1h) Keynote: Training for international speed climbing events Amphithéatre ENSA Sylvain CHAPELLE (France) Keynote: Enhancing workspace and use of momentum in climbing 11:00 - 12:00 (1h) Keynote: Enhancing workspace and use of momentum in climbing Amphithéatre ENSA Udo NEUMANN (Germany) Lunch 12:00 - 13:30 (1h30) Lunch Restaurant ENSA Training 13:30 - 15:10 (1h40) Training Amphithéatre ENSA Olivier BROUSSOULOUX (France) Coffee break 15:10 - 15:45 (35min) Coffee break Salle des Maquettes ENSA Keynote: Competition climbing – developing future champions Keynote: Training for international combined events 16:00 - 17:00 (1h) Keynote: Competition climbing – developing future champions Amphithéatre ENSA Urs STÖCKER (Switzerland) 16:45 - 17:45 (1h) Keynote: Training for international combined events Amphithéatre ENSA Yasui HIROSHI (Japan) General discussion 17:45 - 18:45 (1h) General discussion Amphithéatre ENSA Round Table Qualitative analysis of two of 2017’s greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirement 18:45 - 19:15 (30min) Qualitative analysis of two of 2017’s greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirement Amphithéatre ENSA Eric HÖRST (USA) Climbing circumstances in Japan and upcoming Congress in 2020 19:15 - 19:45 (30min) Climbing circumstances in Japan and upcoming Congress in 2020 Amphithéatre ENSA Shinji MIZUMARA (Japan) Closing Gala 20:30 - 23:55 (3h25) Closing Gala Brasserie de l'M

Online user: 1

RSS Feed